Type A Electrolysis

External Causes

 
     
 
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Type A Electrolysis



"...the biggest characteristic of this type of electrolysis is the fact that the electrolysis voltage will disappear when the battery is removed from the circuit."




When we have a 12 volt circuit that has a poor or missing ground, we have an incomplete circuit that potentially pushes voltage into surrounding components. Maybe it's an electric cooling fan motor that has a poor ground and is using the radiator and coolant to complete the ground circuit. It may be fog lights mounted on the bumper, grounding through rusted mounting hardware. It could be other other add-on accessories, like radios, amps, or  cruise controls to name a few. It might be an engine mounted  sensor "leaking" voltage into the coolant. Perhaps the engine grounds have been "lost" during engine work, allowing current to flow "the long way" back to the battery. Other offenders include aftermarket electric chokes, spark boosters and audio upgrades. The point is, typically this type of electrolysis is a lost ground return path to the battery, and the current is leaking into the coolant as it finds a way back to the battery. The good news is, it is relatively easy to test it, isolate it and fix it.


Of course the biggest characteristic of this type of electrolysis is the fact that the electrolysis voltage will disappear when the battery is removed from the circuit. If in doubt about testing, jump back to the testing page.


When it comes time for isolating the exact circuit, there are several strategies we can follow. 1) Obviously loose or dirty or missing grounds must be repaired. 2) We also need to understand that some circuits are battery fed circuits, and others are ignition switch fed circuits, meaning that we might not be testing correctly if the ignition switch is off.  3) Most of the time removing 1 fuse at a time will be very helpful in

isolating the exact circuit. Once there is some isolation, further investigation along that circuit will reveal more exactly exactly the electrical fault.  4) Some high current electrical components (starter and alternator) are not fused in the traditional way and will require carefully removing the wiring to isolate.  5) Sometimes by unplugging wiring harnesses you can get a change of voltage that will give you a direction to follow. 6)  Treating this type of electrolysis like an electrical draw will most likely result in the problem being found. 7) Some have reported that during starter operation the voltage spiked. I have not verified this.

 

 

 

 

 

 
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